Sunday, May 6, 2012

McCall's 6074 Resurrection Dress

This dress was the easiest but most pain staking ever! It wasn't error of the pattern, fabric, nor myself. It was error of that thing of a Brother sewing machine. That's my story and I'm sticking to it. I have had it since 1998, but it doesn't act bipolar all the time. It only cut up when ...well, when it wants to. I'm just going to call this condition electronic bipolarism.

My sister, Evoni, over at EvyLu's, and I made this dress together during Spring Break. We both had a helluva time with our machines. And I am not talking a good and loving time. I mean hell and high waters of a time! Let me see, there may have been a total of 2 broke needles, 2 bent needles, TONS of thread speghetti under the bobbin houses, clicking and ticking noises, fabric jams through the plate, and so many bobbin house moving in odd directions that we can shake a stick at! ( I wonder what that really mean, "...shake a stick at".) I used to always hear Momma say it and still don't know what it means.

Anyhow's, I am only 5'3" and the patternis obviously made for the usual models who are at least 6 feet something in the higher inches. We were doing View C which is the longest of all the views and we both had to cut it to the length of View D, and the dress is right were it lands on the model for View C. Yeah, we're short people.

DESCRIPTION: Misses' 1 hour puul-over dresses in 3 lengths with deep v front neck line.

SIZES: The pattern comes in sizes A5 (6 to 14) and FF (16 to 22) I believe we cut on the 14. It could have been the 12. I am not with the envelope to makek sure.

DID IT LOOK LIKE THE PHOTO OR DRAWING ON THE ENVELOPE WHEN I WAS DONE: Well, yes it did. It is too easy for it not to look like it.

WERE THE INSTRUCTIONS EASY TO FOLLOW: What instructions? I don't believe we really used them until it was time to put in the elastic and its casing in the front bust area.

WHAT DID I PARTICULARLY LIKE OR DISLIKE: I liked that there are only 2 pattern pieces minus the elastic casing and that it is one the easiest patterns out there. One could easily make an assembly line worth of these bad babies in a matter or a few hours or so. There are no dislikes.

FABRIC USED: I used a black, white, and grey striped knit from Hancock Fabrics.

PATTERN ALTERATIONS OR DESIGN CHANGES: Aside from what what is already mentioned above...none. However, next time I make this dress I would like to do a facing for the neck and arms. Turning and sewing does not look very well finished to me.

WOULD YOU SEW IT AGAIN? RECOMMEND?: Yes and yes!

CONCLUSION: This is the pattern for all your spring and summer maxi dreams. Go get it and sew it up. I see cut, copy and paste (modifications) all over this dress to get the high-low effect, short, long, asymmetrical, tiered, you name it. And it is great for beginner sewers, too. Give it a try.

Sorry there are no photos. It seems as though photos are stuck on my sister's hard drive and I have not had time to photo any more. Once they become available, I'll provide them for you. In the mean time you can enjoy EvyLu's dress.

Tuesday, February 14, 2012

Jean Contest - J. Stern 0037 AKA Operation: Owl Eyes

I have entered another contest despite the fact that life tries to throw curve balls. This one is the Jean Contest. After making a few pairs of pants out of the box, I wanted to make a pair that are ‘me’. I mean, after all, is not that the reason why we sew? I didn’t want another “I look just the other one” pair of jeans.

J Stern pattern

This is my second time making the J. Stern jeans. Here’s the first go at it.

The description taken from J. Stern’s website: Fitted jeans featuring classic 5-pocket styling
w/ optional back flap pockets, easy front fly zipper, boot leg hem and topstitching. Finished inseam 34”. Also, the waistline can be adjusted to sit at your natural waist. The boot cut leg can also be modified to the flare of your liking.

120115_0005

The pattern comes in sizes 6 to 16. I used the size 8 line. This corresponds to a 31 1/2 low waist and 38 1/2 full hip.

My final product does not look like the pattern photos because I made some very custom modifications to fit the bill of what I saw in my head. Had I made them right out of the box, they would have. Even though I have made them only once they are a TNT because they fit so well.

I didn’t use the instructions because I have made jeans before. I did however want to see if I could understand J. Stern’s fly and zip instructions again. I thought I would have understood them this time. Not so. I am pretty sure it’s my brain working on s-l-o-w. Other than that, the instructions are great.

What I like most is everything. The shaping, pieces, instructions, and the coin pocket. I also like how the pockets go all the way to the zipper. I learned that this is called ‘tummy control’ because the pockets are made from a woven and does not allow for any stretching of the pooch area. What I disliked is that the back rise is short for those of use with a little meat on the backside. I wrote on the pack that I needed to lengthen that area from the previous version but I forgot to do that. But that does not justify me to not like the pattern. I love it.

I used the same fabric from the last pair. I must like it because I ordered more from Fabric.com soon after I made the last pair. It is a black stretch denim that looks a little pre-faded. For the pocket bags I used some trash remnants from another project. It is a cotton shirting. I also used some embossed vinyl for the ‘leather’ parts.

There were tons of alterations and design changes. Where do I start?

1. I modified the front pockets to dip lower. That meant I had to change all three pieces. I made the pocket bag a tad bigger, too. Not that I use my pockets much but when I do, (like walking in the park) I want to be able to fit my license, cell phone, and a set of keys in there.

DSCF3082

                                              DSCF3083 

2. As I did on the last pair, I finished the pocket bags with bias binding. This gives such a neat finish. It’s not bulky either.

 

3. I changed the back pocket because I did not want a normal shape. I wanted something else.

DSCF3081

4. I changed the flap. I made the point off-centered. To me, it’s to give contour detail to the rearview.

5. I did try and put in the zipper per instructions but once again I had bad results. In fact, I don’t know what kind of results I got this time. So, not wanting to deal with the pain and to get over that hill I decided to use the Jalie 2908 method. But by now I had already cut off the extra piece on the right side fly that’s instructed. I had to redraft it snd give it seam allowances and sew it right back on. I put the zipper tape to the line and not the zipper teeth. This hid the zipper well under the flap. Although it works, there is something that is just not quite right.

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6. I used the waistband from Simplicity 9825. I love how it sits on my body and there is no problem with it gapping back there.

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I didn’t want the normal thin band that are found on regular jeans. I wanted a wide band. This remedied the low back rise, too. 

S9825

At first I was going to make the waistband in the same vinyl embossed ‘leather’ but that meant a few big fat seams because it is kind of thick. I should have used it to make a covered headboard instead. I would have went ahead and tried it but I cut the pieces without seam allowances by mistake and they were too small. I took them apart and tried to sew them lapped, but they were still too short.

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So, I ultimately decided not waste anymore pleather and cut the band in the denim and lined it with a blue cotton with butterfly designs I had originally supposed to use for my daughter’s sundress.

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7. Last, I tapered the wide flare to more of a straight look. Well, they are not totally straight. At the hem, there was a total of 2 inches on each side taken off. So, front and back leg both sides is a total of 8 inches. I was going for the skinny at first but changed my mind right before I’d cut them. This was the easiest change in the whole process.

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120120_0002120120_0004

Oh, 8. I forgot about this one. I had sewn the center seam off to the right about (eyeballed)halfway of 5/8. When I topstitched, I topstitched to the left. I did this so that my topstitching could be on the center and not off to whatever side my topstitching ended on.

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I have seen (in fact, I own a pair) jeans off-centered like this and it irks me. And 8a. I put my back pockets on last because I wanted to make sure they were centered and properly placed. Not too far up, down, close, apart. Angled correctly… Then I sewed the inseam. That made it easier to sew the back pockets.

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and 9. I cut off 2 1/2 inches from the hem and hemmed them 1 inch. It was a double turn, 1/2 each.  

Of course, I would sew it again and of course, I recommend! Why wouldn’t I when I get such great results?

I had to make a quick dash and get a right now photo:  

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Here are more photos that I could not figure out to place them in the blog.

120115_0006Almost forgot to change the shape.

120115_0007Glue became a friend because the pockets kept moving.

120115_0008Do I want the pocket flaps this way….

120115_0009Or this way?

120115_0010This?

120115_0011This?

120116_0001With or with out a tab?

120124_0000I guess it’s without the tab.

120116_0005With or without the yoke and wide band?

120116_0006Placement here?

120116_0007Or here? Many decisions.

120123_0002Trimming to seam allowance.

120124_0002Ready for the flaps.

I was supposed to wear this top with my jeans but that did not happen.

This is how I wore my new jeans.

120128_0001       120128_0006

The top is McCall’s 56651 Last seen here.

120128_0004        120128_0005

120128_0002Me and my husband, Chad. I don’t like this photo. Let’s take another one…

120128_0003 Ok, it’s better but not the best. I think it’s the sun. (Boy, does my head stand out! LOL)

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No gaposis. And the buttons aren’t functional. I couldn’t get the buttonhole to work so I put a snap just under the tip to keep the flaps down.

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Operation: Owl Eyes was adopted because my youngest son said my back pockets look like owl eyes.

Conclusion Great, great, great!!!

Be encouraged and keep sewing, Scheryka

Saturday, January 28, 2012

McCall’s 6355 - Black Rib Knit

I already have a long sleeve black top but I felt I needed another one that I could comfortably tuck into my pants and not have a thick padding around the waist area. After reading a few reviews, I thought, OK, I’ll give it a try.

M6355

It is described as Misses’ tops and dresses: semi-fitted top, dress have optional front and back darts, self-neck binding and optional invisible side seam zipper. The tanks have self armhole binding. Oh, by the way, this is a Palmer Pletsch pattern. I made view C.

M6355

This pattern comes in sizes 8 to 22. My envelope has the 8 to 16 and I cut the 8. In retrospect, I wish I knew how to downgrade because I think I should have cut around a 6 or maybe I could have even gotten away with a 4.

What I liked about this pattern is that there were a few successful makeups on PatternReview. I liked that it is a basic building block of a top or sheath dress.

What I don’t like about the pattern? It might just be me but I do not like the darts or their placement. There’s something with me and darts that just do not like each other. I looked in my closet at some rtw and, ummm, I don’t have too many tops with darts. I wonder why?

M6355 Front

I wouldn’t know if the instructions were easy or not because the top is a cinch to put together. I did browse over the fit pointers and actually should have followed those at the least. But I doubt the outcome would have been different because of my fabric choice. 

I used this really great black, thick, tight, rib knit. It had great return. I love this fabric and had originally wanted to make a long tight ankle skirt out of it to wear with a wide belt. This fabric is clearly not for this top. It is kind of on the heavy side. But I will see how it goes. It goes (went) to the chopping block to be made into some boot warmers.

M6355 Back

I added 1/2 inch to the hem and 5 inches to the sleeves. I wanted long sleeves not 3/4 sleeves. I took the shoulder in 1/2 inch because they hung over the edge. Then took off 1/2 from the sleeve cap. I played with the bust dart placement and don’t know what to say about that except I’m not totally happy with it. I left the sleeves and hem only serged. I couldn’t get the hems to decently turn without flaring out so I just left them as is. I did the same thing with a previous rib knit top I made.

M6355 Front close up

I’ll sew it again eventually. Right now I am a bit bombed about this one. It will be in a light-weight knit, that’s for sure. I also want to do the dress for spring. I already have the fabric washed and cut because if not it may end up as something else. I will see if I can recommend it after I make another rendition.

Conclusion: I’ll have to get back to you on this.

In the mean time I have decided to put a tag in all of my clothes stating the pattern. Here’s a look of one that was made entirely too big. Next time I will surely use a smaller size.

M6355 Tag

Until later, Be Encouraged and Go Grab Your Dreams, Schey.

Friday, January 13, 2012

S2371

This is the first item for my 10 Essentials that was stated in a previous post. I made this one first because it was the easiest. I needed to start off with an easy piece to break into the mood.

2371S 

I made only the tunic top. I wanted to make the bottoms but had just enough fabric for the top alone and, besides, I really didn’t want the big paisley design on the pants. I wanted a plain pant and couldn’t find a plain fabric in the burgundy nor the kiwi green.

front unhemmed

It’s look purple but it’s actually kind of burgundy.

The pattern is labeled Simplicity Easy to Sew. I must agree! Too simple. Anyone with an ounce of sewing knowledge can make this without the directions. Make sure the markings are clear and you fly through this without wings. So, what took me so long to make it? No mojo and other priorities.

 

Description Misses’ and women’s dress or tunic and pants in two lengths. Easy to sew. I made view C.

Left side

Excuse the boxes. I have been stash searching.

Right side

Size The pattern envelope reads Size AA (10-18); EUR 36-44; and FR 38-46. I made the front piece a 12 and the back piece a 14. I don’t know how that happened but as I was cutting the pieces out, my youngest son told me the numbers didn’t match. I just left it because they weren’t too far off in measurements anyways.

 

Did it look like the pattern photo or drawing on the pattern envelope? Yes! Darn near exact, same color, too. My fabric has b huge kiwi green paisley designs. I love paisley.

Front complete

Back Complete

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes! I read them to make sure I was doing the pleats that are at each shoulder. In hind site, I really didn’t need them. I also referenced them for the front facing and didn’t need them for that either. From here out I didn’t even look at them.

Shoulder pleats

Fabric used I used a very pretty medium shade burgundy broadcloth with big kiwi green paisley. I love that this broadcloth is not lightweight like some others I have felt. I had my eyes on it for a long time but could not bring myself to buy it at regular price. $9.99 a yard. So, when I happen to be in Hancock for no reason at all but to browse, I saw it on the clearance table. I picked up the bolt and it was 2 yards on it and I paid $1.99 a yard for it! Score!, even if it was only enough for the top.

 

Pattern alterations or design changes There weren’t many at all. I mentioned before the mismatched sizing between the front and back of the top. Besides that, I made 3 inch slits on either sides of the hem then used a 1/2 inch hem for the body and sleeves. I did not use the interfacing for the facing pieces. I just gave them a good pressing and they hold pretty good shape. I used the last strip of fabric that was about 3/4 of a yard. I cut it in half the long way and put those two pieces together to make the sash long enough to wrap around my waist twice and then tie.

3in Vent

I wouldn’t know what color your screen shows, but this color is closer to the real shade of a medium burgundy.

Will I sew it again? Do I recommend? Well, yes and yes. I actually have an order to make it in black with gold trim for a lady at my church to wear to our Black History Program. I hope I will be able to get a couple of photos of her in it. Yes, of course, I recommend.

Before rehearsalBefore rehearsal 2

Conclusion? Very confortable tunic and I may sew another one for myself again if I can find the right shade of green. If not, I’m keeping it in the ‘visit again’ pile for later.

Here are my in-between time items I made for the girls.

McCall’s 6275 Girl’s dresses, scarf, and leggings. I made the dress and the leggings.

M6275

The dress is a fail. I added 5 inches to the hem to get an effect my daughter saw in the store. I worked but not as cute as we thought it would come out. The leggings are great though. Ann wanted some skinnies because the last pants were not her style. I made the leggings in denim that were left over from a past project and let there be skinnies. Here are a the pictures she took. She posed – I snapped.

Front fullBack full

Front half

Can’t you tell she likes her top? Neither do I.

skin leg1

skin leg4

skin leg3skin leg2

skin legSkinny.leggings1

Skinny.leggings

Next is Butterick 6659 for Nii.

B6659

I made one for Ann a while back and Nii loves it probably the most. She waits until Ann goes to school and puts it on over her clothes and wears it all day. I have to peel it off of her because Ann wants it back to sleep in at night.

I used the same size for both girls. An 8. Only I overlapped a 1/2 inch for both the front and back center folds for Nii and used View A. I used View D for Ann. I haven’t gotten a photo of Ann’s yet and I don’t promise to post one because I hardly ever go back and post photos. But here the two photos of Nii I did manage to get because she didn’t want to take off her Princess. Anything light pink is princess to her. As I said she wears them over her clothes and it’s hard to get her out of them. This is how we went to pick up Ann from school and grab some items from the grocery store.

PrincessCold Princess

LOL I love my babies! They light up the darkest spots of me.

Until later, Be Encouraged, Scheryka.